Dual 1218 -does not spin

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by dualcan » 18 Nov 2014 02:39

Part 4
The muting switch is easily accessible therefor use 220 grit sand paper, folded and go between fingers and clean:
The attachment 1218 183 cleaning.JPG is no longer available
-while we're at it schtumpy bracket 204 could use a little tlc as well- why not!:
Attachments
1218 204 .JPG
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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by dualcan » 18 Nov 2014 03:03

Part 4
The muting switch is easily accessible, therefore use 220 grit sand paper, folded and go between fingers and clean:
1218 183 cleaning.JPG
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The schtumpy bracket 205 could use a bit of TLC as well- Why not...:
1218 204 .JPG
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Next is the size lever 242 and the switch lever 46 on top, plus size plate 240.
Clean and re- lube similar to the schproing lever next door...as previously discussed...:
1218 size lever etc.JPG
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Lastly for today, very gingerly clean around the anti skate wheel:
1218 200.JPG
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and a very small drop of 10w30 into the shaft for 195:
1218 195.JPG
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Please be careful here This is the most critical adjustment area on all Dual units. The anti skate spring 192 can only be adjusted by skate meter and special disc:
28129
so we do not want to offend that little sucker- right???
To be continued,
k

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by DSJR » 19 Nov 2014 09:13

Can this thread be made a sticky?

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by dualcan » 19 Nov 2014 21:28

I have just finished the 1218 and in pictures and will give the rest of the overhaul shortly, so keep tuned!
As far as a sticky is concerned I would rather not because another sticky would put almost all the "up front real estate" in the Dual thread into overload with stickies. As you probably have seen in the Servicing Dual Turntables, the Motor issue and the DIY stand have been placed into sub-folders therein to economize on the space. At a later date I will streamline this 1218 overhaul thread and re-issue as an overhaul guide for this family of changers within that folder.
I still want to do the 1009/1019 as well because there are a few important elements that need special attention on these.
Plus 1219/1229 etc etc.....
So many turntables so little choo-choo trains :cry:
Regards,
k

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by dualcan » 20 Nov 2014 02:51

Next Chapter.
At this time the main lever needs to be resurfaced in order to achieve reliable transport for the tone arm. The original main lever was sandblasted and it would be the ideal way to dress it. Failing that, we can use 180 grit sandpaper. A few strokes will do it only in the directions shown by the green arrow:
1218 main lever resurface.JPG
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The results with the very slight grooves, as compared to original:
1218 main lever resurfaced.JPG
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to prevent premature wear of the pimple a bit of alvania is put onto the surface:
1218 main lever alvania.jpg
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Put main lever aside.
Next is the cueing lift system.
If the tone arm falls like a rock when the cue lever (47) is released, then the silicon oil needs to be replenished. To that end, remove the connecting lever 223 via c clip 236:
1218 lift 1.JPG
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Turn the lift adjustment bolt 225 until all this falls away:
1218 lift 2.JPG
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Now the lift pin 193 is free to come out from the bottom... almost.
The upper C clips and barrel need to be undone in the next chapter

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by dualcan » 20 Nov 2014 03:45

Flip unit right side up, and remove upper pimple 63 and c clip 64. If you are using the repair stand working on an angle upside down is actually easier. (remember the flight plans of the C clip...):
1218 lift 3.JPG
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Next we remove the barrel 65 by pulling the lift barrel out a bit; it's tight but can be done:
1218 lift 9.JPG
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Next remove the lower c clip 65 and catch it in flight. The lift bolt 193 will now come out through the bottom segment 186.
The barrel can now be replenished with silicon oil 300 000 viscoscity (available from Hobby shops or the Evil Bay under the Kyosho brand im told):
1218 lift 4.JPG
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If you are having problems to get into the barrel, you can also smear some onto spring 190 as well as the lift bolt 193 (sorry for unclear picture):
1218 lift 5.JPG
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Now re introduce lift bolt 193 into the segment 186. Rotate the bolt while inserting to help distribute the oil. Do not get silicon oil on the underside of the tonearm support where the pimple rides. As soon as the bolts shows through the barrel clean off the top section with a Kleenex to avoid contaminating the tonearm underside.

At this early stage, with the top of the lift bolt clean, the rate of descent of the tonearm can be checked by putting the arm off the rest and manually pushing the lift bolt up, then let the arm descent on/with the lift bolt. If the descent is still to fast, put more silicon oil. It is rarely to slow with 300 k oil. Once this rate of descent is proper, the easiest refit of parts is the following.
Place the spring 224, lever 223 and its holding plate 228 back onto the adjusting bolt and replace the c-clip 236, once the cat found it from its previous flight:
1218 lift 6.JPG
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Turn 225 all the way up to force the lift bolt up as far as possible.
This will hold the lift bolt in a better position to finangle the two c clips and the stubborn guide barrel topside,
continued.




Th Hold the bolt from falling out till I get into the next chapter....
continued.

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by dualcan » 20 Nov 2014 04:29

At this point the first c clip (49) is reattached to the lift bolt. To save my nerves from getting to frayed I use a special tool for c clips:
1218 lift 12.JPG
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This does nothing for your nerves I realize but we can mitigate here as well!
Use a small bent nose pliers and hold the c clip like this:
1218 lift 7.JPG
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Bring the C clip onto the groove in the lift bolt but do not push. Use a screwdriver to give a little nudge to fit the sucker:
1218 lift 8.JPG
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At this point a bit of advertising for the DIY stand seems appropriate... I think that from this job angle it can be appreciated why Dual always suggests to "put the turntable into a jig".... Just sayin...... and the price is right too!
Back to the regular scheduled program and we now have the first c clip back on! Great - Take a coffee, Wiskey (stirred not shaken) or a Martini on the rocks - you deserve it!
Now that your hands are steady again, we need to convince the guide sleeve back onto the lift bolt and to that end we need to jank the barrel out a wee bit as we did before- It's OK I won't look....
Next the last C clip 64 and over that the pimple 63. Clean the underside of the arm with isoprophyl alcohol:
1218 lift 10.JPG
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.....and with that the cue lift is back in full (slooow) swing!

Last item on todays agenda is to replace the main lever 212. To that end we need only to take care that the size selector slide 242 is moored into it proper berth (green oval):
1218 lift 11.jpg
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Replace the lower pimple 189. Once the selector slide (242) is in the proper slot, the main lever can simply be placed backed onto bracket 205. The pin 204 with one c clip attached is re inserted into the bracket holding the main lever. Replace the last C clip on the other side of pin 204, and the main lever is now attached.

Hint: The red circle on 242 denotes the missing C clip that the cat is still sitting on. It's time that this be rectified! Trade some catnip for the c clip!
To be continued,
k

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by duastar » 20 Nov 2014 14:55

Dear Klaus!
This plastic barrel No 65 is for decoration only or it have some limitation function?
Thanks.

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by dualcan » 20 Nov 2014 19:03

Hi Duastar,
The positioning sleeve 65 (plastic barrel) or as Dual calls it "set housing" and "positioning socket" every where else in the manual (just to confuse...) is very much a part of the tonearm adjustment, and not decoration. The next part of this series I will give the alignment of this part, but for now, have a look on page 15 (1218), "Tonearm is hindered in the horizontal motion during cycling" -Fig 24. This is the alignment for the horizontal movement. I will show this procedure in more detail later.
Regards,
k

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by dualcan » 21 Nov 2014 01:32

For this installment let's start by looking at motor noise with my favorite stethoscope.
The reason we want to check here is to see how effective the various rubber insulations are between motor and the cartridge.
First put the stethoscope on the motor directly and place ear on other end; do not touch while listening:
1218 noise 1.JPG
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As you can see the long stemmed screwdriver is placed directly on the motor and the handle (approx 3/4"(2 cm)) is small enough to sit comfortably on the ear. Get the ear as close as possible and don't touch while listening.
Now shift the screwdriver to the chassis:
1218 noise 2.JPG
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There must be a many-fold reduction of motor noise audible otherwise the rubber mount 121/123 in the motor bracket is too hard and too much noise/vibration is being transmitted. The last point to check is a bit more tricky but worthwhile. Place tip of screwdriver carefully on the top washer of platter race 167 without touching the outer metal body/core. This is the actual amount of motor noise going into the platter/cartridge. It must be less than the direct chassis noise level, or we have poor rubber washers within that race.

Next item is cleaning. First item is the power switch contacts 165 and the contact in box 150. I use a relais file:
1218 clean 1.JPG
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but 220 grit paper can be used as well:
1218 clean 2.JPG
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While we are in the power box, the red item soldered in is a semko noise suppressor condenser. These condensers are not the X2 RC type used in later Duals and have a much longer life. If they short, then the motor will simply keep on running no matter what the switch is doing. The other defect that tells us to change this condenser, is if we hear a pop or louder click in the audio system when the changer starts or stops. There is no real danger on this type of condenser otherwise. Should it be necessary to change then get a 0.01 uf condenser @ 700 volts for this.
Read more on safety condensers here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_capac ... capacitors
Continue cleaning with the sound contact in the tone arm head PC strip item 44:
1218 clean 3.JPG
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Continued

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by dualcan » 21 Nov 2014 02:14

This plate can simply be pulled down to help in the cleaning:
1218 clean 4.JPG
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I use a fibreglass pencil style eraser for this:
1218 clean 5.JPG
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You can use a Q-tip dipped into a stiff mix of baking soda and a bit of water. It will take a bit longer but it works well, while being eco-friendly.
Once this is cleaned replace the strip and carefully place tonearm back under the rest stop!
The next items for cleaning are the RCA Cinch connectors found in the bracket 180 in the North American units, For the cartridge to sled (TK14/15) and the connector strips or pins on these sleds which contact the pc plate (item 44), use the same mix for cleaning. The four clips to thecartridge might need a bit of tightening while cleaning them...
To clean the RCA / cinch plug/cables I cheat and use a liquid silver cleaner (Tarn-X) which is seriously non eco friendly so use with extreme care, and rinse immediately after cleaning with copious amounts of water. I use this hesitantly, but to get into the ground skirt of RCA connectors or indeed the pins of a 5 pin DIN connector is close to absurd.
This should take care of the dirty contact problems for power and sound.
Next we can clean the overall chassis with my secret solution. I can not reveal the recipe but you can see the results here:
1218 clean 6.JPG
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I stopped cleaning half way under the arm as can be seen if you look carefully:
1218 clean 7.JPG
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This stuff is magic, not only on metal but on the wood work as well, unfortunatelly I can't divulge...Trade secret -sorry
For the grid metal and the platter I used a stubby brush for stiffness:
1218 clean 8.JPG
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Once the general cleaning is complete then the idler and the speed pulley can be re installed. Be careful not to damage the cam when re installing the platter:
Refer to this procedure in the motor service guide for idler installs, pulley adjustment and other precautions.
The last installment will deal with the tonearm adjustments.
To be continued
k

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by dualcan » 22 Nov 2014 23:13

The turntable is now essentially ready for play, but we need to make the final tone arm adjustments.
Before we do that, let's revue what was done:

1. Motor, platter, idler mechanism plus idler cleaned (idler resurfaced ) and re-lubed with the proper lubes as per page 22.

2. Cam 143 removed cleaned and relubed with special attention to the shut off lever 157 and plate 158. Cleaned and relubed the platter bearing 167 and other levers on the bearing bridge (rocker 172 with its cam follower roller).

3. Cleaned and relubed shaft 257 therefore the levers that run around it as well (252,254,256), both control levers 45 and 46 plus link levers 242 and 223.

4. Cleaned the muting switch 183, power switch contact 165, checked suppressor condenser, cleaned tone arm sound plate 44. Cleaned audio cable (Be very careful if Tarn X was used and flush with water then air dry).

5. Removed lift pin 193, cleaned it and relubed with AK300 000 silicon, reassembled lift pin, and checked its descent speed.

6. Installed (new?) pimple 189.

7. Gently worked around the Anti-skate system.

8. Dressed the main lever contact surface.

9. Cleaned and polished topside

and lastly aurally inspected the motor noise level.

One more quick interjection ...
Providing that bolt 213 was not touched, we do not have to worry over the power switching adjustment as described in Fig 18/page 12. If however it was loosened then the re-adjustment must be carried out as described in that section with Fig 13.

Tonearm vertical and horizontal bearing test.
Use the sylus guard or at least be very careful not to damage the stylus accidentally!!

To verify if the adjustable pin bearings 43 for vertical movement and 58 for horizontal are ok, the following procedure should be used (this applies to all Dual counterweighted changers and players as well):
Slip in the cartridge/holder TK 14/15 and balance arm perfectly then:

For the vertical bearing check, no (0)anti skate force, no tracking force. Move arm over from rest post but before mat. Drop a stamp on the arm:
stamp test.JPG
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The arm must descent. Failure to do so means readjusting the bearing with special tools and maybe bearing disassembly and cleaning:
Tone arm bearing tool.JPG
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If the arm balances, drops down with the stamp, then will not lift, it could be that a bit of the silicon oil stayed under the tonearm where the pimple touches and is glue/holding the arm down. Clean this area and try again.

For the horizontal bearing check, put the tracking force at zero. Adjust for 0.5 anti skate force and bring arm toward center of platter. Let the arm go and it must return to rest post. Failure here means the same adjustments/procedures as above.

Tonearm adjustment:
The description in all the languages that I have seen are a bit skimpy and can be misleading ---therefore lets try it this way:
Start again by installing the cartridge/holder TK14 or 15, balance arm as per Instruction Manual and apply tracking force as required by cartridge manufacturer.
No need for the anti skate just yet. Then:

1. Turn cue lift bolt anti (counter) clockwise until stick 47 has no more lifting capacity (disable cue lift).

2. Put speed knob 8 between speeds in order to rotate platter back and forth by hand.

3. Adjust sleeve nut 65 so that the stylus is lower than the mat with tone arm disengaged from cycling (cam in neutral position), but sleeve setting must also allow for arm travel over the rest post when the auto cycle is at maximum lift (press start and hand rotate platter until arm is at maximum auto lift) :
guide sleeve lift.JPG
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As shown, the distance between the tone arm and the surface that it rests on, on the rest post is approx 3mm.

4. Adjust plastic nut 65 (near counter weight) to allow an extra 0.5 mm clearance over (higher than) this 3 mm, measured between pimple 63 and tone arm. It is important that this over-3mm clearance is there throughout the arm travel across entire record.
To check this, leave the arm in the auto cycling position with cam partially turned as shown in picture. The arm can only be dragged to the size selector as it is set, so start by setting it at 7". If the size selector lever 242 is pushed back manually towards counterweight (under chassis) then the rest of the way can be checked.
Remember you are checking for this extra vertical free play, but horizontally the arm will be held by the guide pimple/ main lever, so horizontally it will not want to move!

6. Adjust cue lift now with bolt 225 so that the tonearm is one millimeter or so lower than the 3mm setting , so as not to bind the auto cycle. That is the maximum cueing lift but can be less if so desired.

The unit is now almost ready for use once re installed in its plinth, connect the cables, re -balance and check the tone arm with the anti skate setting, and lastly, lock the tonearm then with arm locked go trough one auto start cycle to allow the unit to reset itself!
Time to enjoy the music!
Regards,
k

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by Ayralin69 » 23 Nov 2014 19:44

Dear Karl and fellow Dual mentors!

I do believe my steurpimpel is in primo condition - [ ummm....that COULD sound very naughty on non-Dual boards! [-X ]

I am sending pic to Karl - feeling a bit over-whelmed with the project :( Since I need the dining room table for Thanksgiving dinner - I will be suspending work. I dod not take the motor apart - the drilling out the pop rivets got me nervous. I've reassembled the idler/ platter for now. I may just touch up the grease on the cams and test the turntable tomorrow.

Linda

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by Ayralin69 » 24 Nov 2014 00:28

Hello, Karl and everyone!
NEWS FLASH!! The DUAL 1218 WORKS!!!!! :D

I followed Karl's guide: but did not do the motor. I did do the platter, idler, dressed the main lever, did oiling & the special grease as best as I could. The steurpimpel seemed perfect - so I did not change it out to the new. Then I noticed the speed lever was stuck & the linkage was stiff - did cleaning & re-greasing. It loosened up nicely.

Decided to give it a whirl, hooked it up to the old receiver & speakers - IT IS WORKING!!

However - I am trying to figure out why left speaker works but the right has only a loud electrical deep-toned HUMMMMM ????????

Thanks for everyone's help - this has been a learning experience - I will post when I figure out the speaker issue -

Happy Thanksgiving,
Linda
Minnesota

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Re: Dual 1218 -does not spin

Post by dualcan » 24 Nov 2014 05:04

Hi Linda,
I looked at the picture and the unit has a bit overdose on grease but if it cycles properly, then all is well. I would suggest to have a go at the motor bearings though, especially the bottom one. Once you have a bit of time, do give it a whack because if the motor runs dry, the thing can seize and/or wear out the rotor. The two rivets are very soft so no big drilling needs to be done. If you have a good pair of side cutters, heavy duty nail clippers even, then you are in business. Just get a set of fitting bolts and nuts or better, get a pop rivet gun (approx $10) and use that to refit the parts. Once you are ready for the motor then re post.
As for the one absent sound channel, check the cartridge/tk14 sled connectors to the head as I showed 5 or 6 pictures back. Also make sure the sound cable on the chassis is connected and cleaned.,
Regards
Klaus
No, not Santa, just the subordinate kind!